Introduction
Marker is a thin paper that contains all the components of a garment according to garment design and to use the fabric maximum.
Or, a marker is a diagram of the precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread.
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Objectives
- To hold all the patterns of a garment with accurate design
- To use the fabric optimum'
- To follow the accurate design
- To maintain the color effectively
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| Marker Making |
Marker Efficiency
Factors Affecting Marker Efficiency
Marker length: Marker length depends on the marker table. As marker length increases, the area of marker rearrangement increases. Due to this, marker efficiency also increased.
Marker width: Marker width depends upon fabric width. In general, when fabric width increases, marker efficiency also increases up to a certain range. Excess width may reduce marker efficiency.
Size of garment: As the number of sizes of a garment increases, the number of components also increases. This helps to increase the marker efficiency. But excess size may reduce it.
Master or marker planner: Skill, manpower, technical knowledge, and honesty are important factors. This affects the marker efficiency.
Constraints of Marker Making
Grain Line: The grain line is the line that indicates the warp direction of woven fabric or wales of knitted fabric. It expresses the direction for placing the pattern on the marker.
Fabric characteristics: According to fabric appearance and design, there are two types of fabric.
Symmetrical fabric: If the direction of the fabric changes 180 degrees and the outlook is the same, it is called symmetrical fabric. Such as solid-color plain fabric.
Asymmetrical fabric: When the direction of a fabric changes by 180 degrees and it looks different, it is called asymmetrical fabric, such as stripe fabric.
Garment properties: When the style of a garment is highly complex, the limitations of marker-making increase as the pattern parts must be placed according to the design.
Cutting quality: There are different types of cutting machines that are used to cut the fabric. Allowance must be placed on the marker for the movement of the knife; otherwise, the component could be damaged.
- If the size ratio is larger and the quality is few, a different marker has to be made.
- Production capacity must be considered for production.
- Maker table length, worker capacity, and product quality must be considered at marker efficiency.
Marker Making Methods
Markers can be made either in 1. Manual method or in 2. Computerized method.Manual Method
- Marker placement with full-size pattern
- Marker with minimized pattern.
Marker Planning with Full-size Pattern
- In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement.
- Hard patterns are placed on paper or fabric and then all patterns are marked by turning them in different directions to minimize the fabric usage.
- The tables on which the markers are placed are arranged in such a way that they do not tilt.
- Vacuum system is arranged under the table for suctioning.
- This method is suitable for markers of shorter length when different sizes of patterns are taken for making a marker; in that case, it is not useful.
Marker With Minimized Pattern
- Full-size patterns are minimized to 1/5 parts using a pantograph, and the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic sheets.
- Markers are planned with small patterned pieces.
- After making it, snaps are taken with the camera.
- The covered area of the pattern in the marker is measured by a planimeter. Planimeter: An instrument for measuring the area of any plane figure, however irregular, by passing a tracer around the bounding line.
- Marker efficiency is measured by calculating the marker area and pattern area.
- Marker photographs and miniatures are stored.
- From the more minimized markers, full-size markers are made with more marker efficiency.
- Sometimes, for pantograph problems, full-size markers give more efficiency.
- Suitable for large volumes.
Computerized Method
- This is the best method of marker making and is widely used.
- In this method, every component of the pattern is kept in the memory of the computer, and the grading rule is also mentioned.
- Then the computer makes the marker by its pre-fashioned programming technique.
- Information about the patterns can be stored by
2. Scanning system.
Digitizing System
- In this process, patterns are placed on the digitizing board.
- Each portion of the components is sent to the computer memory by clicking the special mouse around the pieces.
Scanning System
- This is a special type of machine like photocopies.
- Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass, and a marker is made in a selected size.
- Grade ruler is used to make other sizes.
Advantages of the Computerized Method
- Suitable for large-scale production
- Marker efficiency is higher than the manual method.
- Last amount of wastage of fabric.
- If required, a printout of the marker is possible at any time.
- Automatic grading.
- Less time and manpower are required, so production is higher.
Disadvantages of the Computerized Method
- High initial investment
- Skilled operator needed
Difference Between Manual and Computerized Techniques
Computerized Marker Making
Computerized marker making is of two types. They are.- Automatic marker making
- Interactive method
Automatic Marker Making
- In this process, the computer itself produces markers from different pattern pieces.
- In the automatic marker-making system, the computer makes the marker itself according to the command given to the computer.
- This process allows higher marker efficiency to be achieved but is a time-consuming method because the computer uses a permutation-combination method to produce markers.
- Modern systems, however, overcome this problem of time, and nowadays, it is possible to get an automatic marker in only 2 minutes with a satisfactory level of marker efficiency.
Interactive Method
- This is a common process, here the marker planner plans markers by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen.
- Two horizontal lines are shown in the middle of the screen, which indicate the marker width.
- The vertical line on the left indicates the start of the marker and the right side is open at first.
- All the pattern pieces are displayed in miniature form at the top of the screen.
- The pieces can be dragged and dropped in the marker area.
- After placing all the pattern pieces, it is possible to see data like marker efficiency, marker length, marker width, etc. Just below the parallel lines.
- After the completion of marker making, it is saved in the computer memory, and it is possible to take the printout of the marker at any time.
Difference Between Automatic and Interactive Methods
Marker Duplicating Method
- Manual
- Automatic
Manual Marker Duplicating Method
Carbon duplicating method: In this method, first, the marker is manufactured with the pattern according to the design. The marker is placed on carbon paper and marker paper; this way, the number of duplicating sets increases. Then the marker and duplication mark are manufactured.
Spirit/Diazo duplicating method: In this method, first the original marker is produced, then the original marker and the duplicating marker are passed through the diazo chemical, which marks the duplicating marker.
Photographic method: In this method, at first the marker paper is used to manufacture the marker. Then it passed with the photo-sensitive paper. Light passes through the marker over the photo-sensitive paper. The firm then creates and develops the marker on the photo paper.
Perforated marker: In this method, the original marker is placed over a number of marker papers. Then a tiny drill machine is used to make a hole, and the hole is joined and marked with a duplicate marker.
Fabric Wastage Outside Marker
Fabric loss at width: When the fabric is processed, the width-wise fabric is used for holding at processing. That's why 2 cm of fabric from each width must be kept free. It is around 4-5% of the total fabric.
End loss: When the fabric is spread, it needs to shrink. For this reason, a 2 cm allowance is placed outside the marker.
Piece loss: Sometimes when fabric is cut according to the marker, there is a piece loss. There may be some shade variation. For this reason, some pieces may be lost. It counts as a piece of loss. This can be minimized by checking the fabric for spreading.
Remnant loss: When the fabric is spread, the extra length of the fabric for the fabric spreading table is cut out. This is called remnant loss. For this reason, another/separate marker needs to be produced.