Introduction
Marker is a thin paper contains all the component of a garment according to garment design and to use the fabric maximum.
or, A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread.
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Objectives
- To hold all the pattern of a garment with accurate design
- To use the fabric optimum'
- To follow the accurate design
- To maintain the color effectively
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| Marker Making |
Marker Efficiency
Factors Effect on Marker Efficiency
Marker length: Marker length depends on marker table. If marker length increases, the area of marker rearrangement increased. Due to this, marker efficiency also increased.
Marker width: Marker width depends upon fabric width. In general, when fabric width increases, marker efficiency increased up to a range. Excess width may reduce marker efficiency.
Size of garment: When the no of size of garments increased, no of component also increased. Which help to increase marker efficiency. But excess size may reduce it.
Master or marker planner: Skill manpower, technical knowledge and honesty are an important factor. It effects the marker efficiency.
Constrains of Marker Making
Grain Line: Grain line is the line which indicates the warp direction of woven fabric or wales of knitted fabric. It expresses the direction for placing the pattern on the marker.
Fabric characteristics: According to fabric appearance and design there are two types of fabric.
Symmetrical fabric: If the direction of a fabric change 180 degree and the outlook same, it is called symmetrical fabric. Such as solid color plain fabric.
Asymmetrical fabric: When the direction of a fabric change 180 degree and it looks different is called asymmetrical fabric such as stripe fabric.
Garment properties: When the style of a garment is high complex, the limitation of the marker making increased as the pattern part must place according to the design.
Cutting quality: There have different types of cutting machine which used to cut the fabric. Allowance must place in the marker for the movement of the knife, otherwise the component could damage.
- If the size ratio is larger and quality is few, different marker has to make.
- The production capacity must consider for production.
- Maker table length, worker capacity and product quality must consider at marker efficiency.
Marker Making Methods
Marker can be made either in 1. Manual method or in 2. Computerized method.Manual Method
The method of making which is done by the hand of people with his own planning is known as manual method of marker making. In this method, physical & mental industry is necessary.Manual method is of two types:
- Marker planning with full size pattern
- Marker with minimized pattern.
Marker Planning With Full Size Pattern
- In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement.
- Hard patterns are placed on paper or on fabric and then all patterns are marked by turning different direction to minimize the fabric usage.
- The tables on which the markers are placed, are arranged in such a way so that they do no tilt.
- Vacuum system is arranged under the table for suction.
- This method is suitable, for markers of shorter length, When different sizes of patterns are taken for making a marker, in that case it is not useful.
Marker With Minimized Pattern
- Full sized patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a panto graph, and the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic sheet.
- Marker is planned with small patterns piece.
- After making, snaps are taken by camera.
- The covered area of pattern in the marker is measured by planimeter. Planimeter: An instrument for measuring the area of any plane figure, however irregular, by passing a tracer around the bounding line.
- Marker efficiency is measured by calculating marker area and pattern area.
- Marker photograph and miniature marker are stored.
- From more minimized marker, full size markers are made with more marker efficiency.
- Sometimes, for panto graph's problem, full size markers give more efficiency.
- Suitable for large volume.
Computerized Method
- This is the best method of marker making and widely used.
- In this method, every component of patterns is kept in the memory of the computer and Grade rule is also mentioned.
- Then the computer makes the marker by its pre-fashioned programming technique.
- The information of patterns can be stored by
2. Scanning system.
Digitizing System
- In this process, patterns are placed in the digitizing board.
- Every portion of the components are sent to the memory of the computer by clicking special mouse around the pieces.
Scanning System
- This is a special type of machine like photocopies.
- Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass, and then a marker is made in a selected size.
- Grade ruler is used for making other sizes.
Advantages of Computerized Method
- Suitable for large scale production
- Marker efficiency is higher than manual method.
- Last amount of wastage of fabric.
- If required, printout of marker is possible anytime.
- Automatic grading.
- Less time and manpower required, so production is higher.
Disadvantages of Computerized Method
- High initial investment
- Skilled operator needed
Difference Between Manual and Computerized Techniques
Computerized Marker Making
The computerized marker making is of two types. They are.- Automatic marker making
- Interactive method
Automatic Marker Making
- In this process, the computer itself produces marker from different pattern pieces.
- In the automatic marker making system, the computer makes the marker itself according to the command given to the computer.
- In this process, higher marker efficiency can be achieved but is time-consuming method, because computer use permutation- combination method to produce marker.
- The modern systems however overcome, this problem of time and nowadays, it is possible to get automatic marker only in 2 minutes with a satisfactory level of marker efficiency.
Interactive Method
- It is a common process, here the marker planner plan markers by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen.
- Two horizontal lines are shown in the middle of the screen, which indicates the marker width.
- A vertical line in the left indicates the start of the marker and right side is open at first.
- All the pattern pieces are displayed in the miniature form at the top of the screen.
- They are dragged and dropped in the marker area.
- After placing of all pattern pieces, it is possible to see the data like marker efficiency, marker length and marker width etc. information just below the parallel lines.
- After completion of marker making, it is saved in the computer memory, and it is possible to take the printout of the marker any time.
Difference Between Automatic and Interactive Methods
Marker Duplicating Method
- Manual
- Automatic
Manual Marker Duplicating Method
Carbon duplicating method: In this method, at first the marker manufacture with the pattern according to the design. Then the marker placed on a carbon paper and marker paper, like this way, the number duplicating set increased. Then the marker mark and duplication mark is manufacture.
Spirit/Diazo duplicating method: In this method, at first the original marker produced then the original marker and the duplicating marker is passing through the diazo chemical which marks the duplicating marker.
Photographic method: In this method, at first the marker paper use to manufacture the marker. Then it passed with the photo sensitive paper. A light pass through the marker over the photo sensitive paper. Then the firm create, and then it develops the marker in the photo paper.
Perforated marker: In this method, original marker placed over a number of marker paper. Then a tiny drill machine used to make hole, and the hole join and mark the duplicate marker.
Fabric Wastage Outside Marker
Fabric loss at width: When the fabric process, the width wise fabric used for holding at processing. That's why 2 cm of fabric from each width must keep free. It is around 4-5% of total fabric.
End loss: When the fabric spread, it needs to shrink. Due to this reason, 2 cm allowance placed outside the marker.
Piece loss: Sometimes when fabric cut according to the marker. It may have some shade variation. Due to this reason, some piece may lose. It counts as piece loss. It can be minimized by checking at fabric spreading.
Remnant loss: When fabric spread, the extra length of fabric for fabric spreading table cut out. It is called remnant loss. Due to this reason, another/separate marker needs to produce.