In this article, we are going to learn about interlining. What is interlining, the objectives of interlining & different types of interlining will be discussed here. So, let's get into the topic.
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Definition
Interlining is an accessory that is used in between two components of a garment to retain its original shape and increase attachment, control: size, and other parameters. Interlinings are used in collars, cuffs, hems, facings, waistbands, and the front part of the jacket or coat. They are available in a wide range of weights: 13.56 to 135.62 GSM and construction.
The fabrics that are used as interlinings are made from cotton, nylon, polyester, wool, and viscose rayon or making of these different fibers. Woven, knitted, or nonwoven fabrics are used for interlining. Sometimes finishing is necessary to improve its properties. i.e. Shrink resistant finish, Crease resistant finish.
Objectives of Interlining
- To support, reinforce, and control the garments.
- To create the shape of garments.
- To make a garment stiff, nice, and attractive.
- To improve garment performance.
Types of Interlining
There are two main types of interlining.
A. Based on application methods, there are two kinds of interlining:
- Non-fusible/sewn interlining
- Fusible interlinings
B. Lining material onto which a thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed, or printed. There are different types of interlinings
- Woven interlinings
- Non-woven interlinings
- Knitted interlining
- Non-general interlinings
Non-fusible Interlining/Sewn Interlining
- Joining more than one component by sewing.
- Starch or adhesive can be used between the components.
- Ancient method.
- It takes more time.
- It's a laborious process.
- Cannot control shrinkage or shape as fusible interlining.
- Strength depends on the type of fabric, number of ply, characteristic of attachment, etc.
- It is not suitable for large-scale production.
- Used to make flame-retardant garments.
- The initial cost is low.
- Quality is not so good.
Quality of Sewn Interlining Depends On
- Types of fabric used to make interlinings.
- Fabric construction.
- Thickness of interlining.
- Types of finishes used.
- Consistent with the body fabric.
Fusible Interlining
- Used thermoplastic resin.
- Heat and pressure are applied to join the components and interlining materials.
- The time required is less than sewing interlining.
- It's not laborious.
- It does not require a skilled operator.
- Suitable for large-scale production.
- It can control shape and shrinkage, and remain in its original shape and size which is better than sewn interlining.
- Proper care is essential to control temperature and pressure.
- No sewn puckering problem.
- Cost is more than sewn interlining.
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| Fusible Interlining © Textile Pad |
Required Properties of Fusible Interlinings
- The fusing temperature should be in the perfect range. The usual maximum temperature is 170℃ and the common temperature is 150℃.
- Time 5-20 seconds
- Pressure is machine-adjustable
- The resin must provide a bond that is suitable and resistant to washing and dry cleaning.
- It should not be hazardous to health
- The color of interlining should be white and transparent in common cases.
Sequences of Attaching Fusible Interlining to the Body
Placement of the interlining on the body fabric
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Heat and pressure application for a certain time
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Fusing of thermoplastic resins
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Bond formation between resin and fiber
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Laminate fabric
Condition/Properties of Fusing Properties of Fusible Interlinings
- Attractiveness
- Strength
- Accurate fusing
- Shrinkage due to fusing
- Color of fabric
- Outer surface appearance
- Special Property
Attractiveness: Fusing should give the required handle drape, stiffness, and other properties of the fabric.
Strength: The bonding between the interlining material and fabric should be so high that they will not change during washing, cleaning, further processing, etc.
Accurate fusing: For accurate fusing, strike through and strike back will be removed carefully. If the resin method comes out at the upper surface through the garment fabric due to excess pressure and heat then it is called strike-through. If the melted resin comes out at a lower surface through the interlining fabric then it is called strike back.
Shrinkage due to heat: Temperature used during fusing can cause fabric shrinkage. To avoid this shrinkage, tension should be applied to the fabric. Temperature should be controlled.
Color of fabric: Due to temperature the color of interlining can change the color of fabric during fusing. So, that it can mismatch with other parts of garments. So, there will be a shade variation, and those garments will be neglected.
Outer surface appearance: The pressure and temperature during fusing can change the outer surface appearance, which does not change during fusing.
Special properties: The special properties of a fabric can be hampered by using fusing. For example, shower-proof property can be damaged by the temperature and pressure during fusing.
Types of Fusible Interlinings
- Polyethylene coated
- Polypropylene coated
- Polyamide coated
- Polyester coated
- PVC coated
- PVA coated
Polyethylene Coated
- Polyethylene is used as a resin-coated
- Higher bonding strength due to higher density of polyethylene
- Greater resistance to dry-cleaning
- Washing is possible
- Used on collars, the cuffs of shirts
Polypropylene Coated
- Polypropylene is used as a resin-coated
- Comparatively high fusing temperatures required
- Properties similar to polyethylene-coated interlinings
- Any kind of washing is applicable
Polyamide Coated
- Polyamide is used as a resin-coated
- Dry cleaning is possible
- Can be washed at a temperature of 60℃
- Polyamides are very widely used in dry cleanable garments
Polyester Coated
- It is an ideal interlining
- Polyester is used as a resin-coated
- Applicable for all types of fabric
- Dry cleanable and washable
PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride) Coated
- PVC is used as a resin-coated
- Applicable for all types of fabric
- Dry cleanable and washable
- Used in large areas of application like coats and siliconized rainwear fabrics
PVA/ (Polyvinyl Acetate) Coated
- PVA is used as a resin-coated
- A light coating is enough
- Requires lower temperature and pressure for fusing
- Not dry cleanable but a soft wash can be applied
- Normally used for fusing leather
Methods of Resin Coating
- Scatter coating
- Dry dot coating
- Paste coating
- Film coating
- Emulsion coating
- Spray coating
- Perforated coating
Scattered Coating
- A special scattering head is used to scatter the resin automatically.
- Resin is melted by heat and it is pressed onto the base fabric
- After cooling, the resin is mixed with the base fabric
- The size of the resin particles is 150-400μ which is bigger
- This process is the cheapest but uneven and less flexible
Dry Dot Coating
- The powdered resin fills the engraved holes on the roller and the base cloth passes over a heated roller and then against the engraved roller.
- The powdered resin adheres to the cloth in the form of dots.
- Overheating follows the printing operation to ensure permanent adhesion
- Heat and pressure are applied to mix the resin with the base fabric
- The size of the resin particles is 80-200μ. The size of the dots is 3-12/cm
- A smaller dot size is required for finer fabrics; a larger dot size is required for coarser fabrics.
Paste Coating
- Fine resin powder is blended with water or other agents to form a smooth paste and then it is printed onto the base fabric in different sizes and shapes
- Heat is applied to remove water and chemicals and it is also pressed so that the resin particles are imparted to the base fabric
- This type of coating gives precisely shaped dots and is used to produce the finer dots used in shirt collars.
Film Coating
- Resin is melted by temperature and used as a thin film onto the surface and base fabrics as another layer
- Less flexibility
- Used for polyethylene interlinings
Emulsion Coating
- Resin is mixed with water and chemicals to form an emulsion
- The base fabric is passed through the emulsion bath so that the fabric absorbs the emulsion
- Squeezing the roller controls the absorbency
- After drying by heat, the resin is fixed on both sides of the fabric.
- Rigidity is more
Spray Coating
- In this method, the resin polymer is melted and then sprayed onto the base fabric. For even distribution, proper care is required.
Types of Fusing/Fusing Methods
- Single fuse
- Reverse fuse
- Sandwich fuse
- Double fuse
- Top fuse
- Resin-Substrate-Top cloth
Types of Fusing Machines
- Hand iron
- Flatbed fusing press
- Continuous fusing press
- High-frequency fusing machine
Hand Iron
- Applicable for which interlining requires less temperature and pressure
- Cannot control temperature, pressure, or fusing time
- Less strength of bonding between interlining and base fabric, so that it can be departed during washing, wearing, etc.
- After fusing, sewing is required then it again requires another fusing for better strength.
- It is the most laborious process.
Flatbed Fusing Machine
Contains two beds, the fixed bed is called the buck, and the movable bed is called the head. Buck is covered by soft material such as fabric, blanket, rubber, etc. Two beds are coated with Terylene so that they can be cleaned easily from melted resin or any other dirt. The head is heated by electricity or steaming.
First, the interlining and base fabric are set on the buck. The head comes into contact with the buck and it applies the required pressure on the fabric. Then temperature is also generated. This process goes on until the previous set time is over. After completing the time, the head goes back to its original position. To cool the interlining and fabric quickly, the hot air is absorbed by a suction fan. Thus interlining is attached.
The head can come in contact with the buck by two kinds of movement.
- Vertical action
- Scissor action
Except for piles, all kinds of fabric can be fused. To get better quality temperature and pressure should be checked at a low interval. Normal ironing is also possible with this machine. This machine is widely used.
Continuous Fusing Press
Here, a continuous belt or feed sheet is used which directs the feed material to the fusing chamber and fuses it at the plane surface. Required temperature and pressure are applied into the fusing chamber. Heat is applied to the interlinings by direct and indirect methods. After heating, pressure is created by a pair of rolls, which are rubbed and coated by a spring or pneumatic system. Here, temperature and pressure can be controlled. Time can be controlled by controlling the speed of the feed sheet. After finishing the process, the fused materials are removed, and then the feed sheet is carefully kept on a plain surface to avoid creases. In this process, few machines contain a feedback system.
Here production is higher and quality is better. It is mostly used in the large garment industry. This process is also suitable for pile fabric.
High-Frequency Fusing Machine
This machine contains two metal plates. Here heat is generated as the microwave-woven layers of interlining and fabric set between these two metal plates. The upper plate presses the layer by spring or pneumatic system. Heat is generated by the frequent vibrating motion of the two plates during electronic flow. At every point, the heat is distributed evenly among the layers. This type of heating is called dielectric heating.
Steam is also required between the fabric and the interlining. Due to different steam, heat can be changed. Interlining resin is heated more quickly than the fabric. Heat should be changed for synthetic and natural fiber. In this process, less time is required. Normally 7 cm height of layers can be fused at a time. Fusing time depends on the layer and electric flow. Normal time is 1-3 minutes.
Quality Control in Fusing
- Temperature
- Pressure
- Fusing time
- Pilling strength
- Dry cleaning and washing
Tags
Apparel