Fabric Spreading and Requirements of Fabric Spreading

Introduction

Fabric spreading is a process by which plies of fabric are spread in order to get the required length and width as per marker dimension.

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Objectives of Fabric Spreading

1. Placing the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to length and width without tension.
2. To cut garments in bulk and save cutting time and fabric.
3. To make every ply plain and flat.

Factors to Be Considered for Ply Height Determination

1. The thickness of the fabric: When the thickness of the fabric is more, then the no of ply will be less.
2. Cutting knife length: Lay height will be 70% of the length of the cutting knife.
3. The volume of production: For bulk production, the no of ply is more, and the height of the lay is more.
4. Nature of the fabric: In the case of no of the ply, cotton can be cut but man-made fiber (synthetic) fabric can not be cut.

Requirements for Fabric Spreading

1. Fabric ply alignment (basic requirement): All plies must be aligned on one side and comprised at least the length and width of the marker plan but have a minimum extra (2 cm) outside of these measurements.

2. Correct ply tension (basic requirement): The ply tension should be correct. If the tension is too low, there will be ridges in the plies; if the tension is too high, the fabric may shrink after cutting or sewing.

3. Each ply must be flat, crinkle, and crease-free (basic requirement): The fabric laid down on the table should be flat, crinkle, and crease-free otherwise fabric would be downgraded and substandard.

4. Correct ply direction (basic requirement): It depends on fabric type, pattern shape, and spreading equipment. This is suitable for symmetric fabric and requires no special attention regarding ply direction. But asymmetric fabric should be placed in the correct ply direction according to the marker during spreading otherwise, garments will be faulty.

5. Elimination of fabric faults (basic requirement): If any part of the fabric is faulty that should be eliminated during spreading. If any ply of the pattern contains neps, holes, slubs, mixed yarn, or faded portions that should be checked with caution during spreading.

6. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting (additional requirement): Heat may form for the friction between the cutting knife and fabric lay, especially if the fabric is made of thermoplastic fiber. The fabric may melt to this heat. If this happens, polymer bids produce on the edges of the pattern. We can prevent the fabric from fusion by-

• Using anti-fusion paper
• Using silicone lubricants on the knife blade.
• Reducing ply height.
• Lowering the speed of cutting the knife.

7. Avoidance of distortion of plies (additional requirement): While cutting the lay fabric with the straight knife, the edges of the pattern may crease because of the friction between the knife and fabric. This may produce a faulty pattern. To avoid this problem, the lay of the fabric is made on smooth paper.

8. Easy separation of cut lay into bundles (additional requirements): The size of the bundle of cutting fabric depends on the lay of fabric height. During spreading for color variation or shade variation or any of the reasons the separation spot may require in the plies. For this separation, low-price-colored paper is used on the fabric plies. Furthermore, in the case of slippery fabric, this colored paper helps to catch the lay tightly. Rough surface colored paper is used for this purpose.

9. Matching checks or stripes: During the time of making fabric lay by spreading of fabrics need to keep observation so that if the fabric is checked or striped, then one layer of fabric needs to be placed on the other by matching the checks or stripes properly.

Types of Fabric Lay

A) According to Construction Fabric Lay May Be of Two Types

1. Straight lay
2. Stepped lay.

B) According to the Direction of Spreading Fabric Lay Be of Three Types

1. Spreading from right to left (face to back)
2. Spreading from right to right (face to face)
3. Zigzag lay.

Methods of Fabric Spreading

Manual Method

1. Fabric is laid completely by hand
2. Fabric is laid by a hook
3. Fabric is laid with the help of a manually operated spreading truck.

Mechanical Method

1. Semiautomatic system
2. Automatic system.

Types of Fabric Splices

1. Straight line
2. Interlock splice.

Types of Fabric Packages

1. Open fabric rolled
2. Tubular knitted fabric rolled
3. Folded fabric rolled
4. Folded fabric cuttled
5. Hanging fabric packages.